Bathtub Replacement

Day 1: protect adjacent flooring, demo the old tub and surround. Day 2: inspect subfloor and framing, repair any rot. Days 3–4: plumbing rough (PEX supply, 2" drain with overflow), inspection. Day 5: set the new tub level on mortar bed or shims, dry-fit. Days 6–8: cement board, waterproofing, tile install. Days 9–10: grout, tub trim, glass or curtain rod. Total: 7–10 working days for a like-for-like, 12–15 for a tub type change.

We almost always find one or more of: a corroded overflow gasket that's been leaking onto the subfloor, a 1.5" drain that should be 2", missing shutoff valves, polybutylene supply lines from the 80s–90s, and rotted sill plates at the base of the back wall. We address each in scope. If significant rot is found, we transition to a water damage repair change order before installing the new tub.

Acrylic alcove tubs ($400–$1,200) are the budget standard — warm to touch, lightweight, easy to install. Cast iron ($800–$2,500) lasts 50+ years and holds heat best but weighs 300–500 lbs and requires reinforced framing on second stories. Freestanding stone-resin or composite tubs ($1,800–$6,000+) are visual showpieces but need exposed plumbing routes that often require slab work in Valley homes. We help size the tub to your hot-water heater capacity — a 70-gallon soaker needs at least a 50-gallon tank or tankless equivalent.

Alcove tubs fit between three walls and are the most common and economical choice. Drop-in tubs sit inside a deck or platform, allowing more design flexibility. Freestanding tubs stand alone as a focal point and need more floor space. Corner tubs fit diagonally into a corner and can save space in some layouts. The existing bathroom configuration often determines which types are practical.

Walk-in tubs have a watertight door that allows users to step in without climbing over a high wall, plus a built-in seat. They can be valuable for people with mobility concerns who still want to bathe. Users must wait while the tub fills and drains, and the large volume of water may require additional hot water capacity.

Acrylic tubs are lightweight, warm to the touch and resist chipping. Fibreglass tubs are economical but less durable. Enamelled cast-iron tubs are extremely durable and retain heat well but are very heavy. Enamelled steel tubs are less expensive than cast iron but can chip and feel colder. Each material balances cost, durability and comfort differently.

The usable water depth of a tub depends on the height of the overflow drain rather than the overall height of the tub. Deep soaking tubs have higher overflows, allowing more water depth. If a deep soak is important, check the overflow height before choosing a tub.

Old cast-iron tubs can be extremely heavy and difficult to remove intact. They are often broken into pieces for removal, which requires care to protect surrounding finishes and workers. Removal may also require cutting into adjacent walls or flooring.

Large soaking tubs can hold more hot water than a standard water heater can supply at once. Before installing a large tub, check whether the water heater can fill it with sufficiently hot water, or consider upgrading the water heater.

Cast-iron and stone tubs, especially when filled with water and occupied, can place considerable weight on the floor. On slab foundations this is rarely a concern, but in upper-floor bathrooms the floor structure should be checked and reinforced if necessary.

The walls around a tub can be finished with tile, solid-surface panels or prefabricated surrounds. Tile offers design flexibility, panels reduce grout lines and simplify cleaning, and prefabricated surrounds are economical. All require proper waterproofing behind them.

Many bathrooms use a tub with a shower above it, providing flexibility in a single space. This combination works well in hall bathrooms and for families with young children. Glass doors or curtains contain water during showering.

Tub faucets may be mounted on the wall, deck or floor depending on the tub style. Drain assemblies vary as well. Matching the faucet and drain to the chosen tub ensures proper installation and function.

Whirlpool tubs use water jets for massage, while air tubs release streams of air bubbles for a gentler effect. Both require electrical connections and maintenance. Air tubs are generally easier to keep clean because water does not circulate through internal piping.

In many bathrooms, the tub can be replaced while leaving the vanity, toilet and most of the flooring in place. The work usually involves removing the surrounding wall finish down to the framing, replacing the tub, installing new waterproofing and tile or panels, and repairing the immediately adjacent flooring. This approach updates the most worn element of the bathroom without the cost of a full remodel, though matching existing tile can be difficult if the original is no longer available.

For people who still want to bathe but find stepping into a tub difficult, a lower tub wall, a built-in seat, a handheld shower and grab-bar blocking can all make bathing safer. Discussing accessibility needs before choosing a tub helps ensure the replacement suits the household now and in the future.

Tubs come in standard lengths and widths, but older bathrooms are not always built to standard dimensions. Measuring the alcove, doorways and hallways before ordering ensures the new tub fits the space and can actually be carried into the bathroom.